When I first started researching the Inca Trail I was a bit put off that I was required to hire a guide outfit to basically take me there and less excited that they had to set the pace. If I recall my exact thoughts were, “Great… another corrupt government basically putting their nose where it doesn’t belong and letting the locals get a kickback.” I am not the type of guy who likes to be forced to give money for something I can do myself easier and more enjoyably. Unfortunately, rules are rules and whether I liked it or not everyone who walked the trail had to be escorted by a guide.
Why the rules? It seems that Machu Picchu is such a big draw, and the Inca trail to the ruins is such a rewarding way to get there, so many people were doing it that the trail, a historical monument in itself, was being overused, damaged, and destroyed. In response, the government instituted a daily limit of users. Only 500 people, which included the guides and porters, were allowed on the trail. The tourists were supervised by the guides, who were held responsible for the actions of their wards. These actions ensured the trail was protected, and overseen, not just by the government, but many people every day, and, at least to us, seemed to work well.
How do these regulations effect the local population? Initially I envisioned locals taking advantage of international tourists by charging them and delivering little in return – just acting as baby sitters. I was very wrong. Although we did pay a handsome sum, we feel it was worth it and more. I will speak for the company we used; Alpaca Expeditions out of Cusco. They like to bill themselves as the “Green Machine” They were green, they did operate as a machine, but what separated them was their dedication to the environment and desire to protect their cultural heritage. They picked the color green, not only because no other group was green, but because it represented their commitment to the environment. One example were the ponchos they provided. They were heavy duty and reusable. They stated with 500 people a day, 3500 per week converging on Machu Picchu… how many disposable ponchos would show up and be tossed. In addition to helping the environment, Alpaca Expeditions have also assisted local children, doing charitable work and fostering a environment dedicated to environmental awareness. Such activities that start with the young are necessary to bring a country currently dedicated to excessive mining and logging to more conservation and sustainability.
One significant benefit of the regulations were to the local population. The treks provided much needed employment to locals who needed work to support their families. The porters worked very hard, and were very happy to have their jobs. The regulations protected them from carrying too much and ensured their well being as well. When we passed through the small villages, they benefited from the food we obtained, objects purchased, and awareness that was raised. Even our guide, Lizandro, although college educated and very aware of the world, was from a small local village with a tiny trout aquaculture production operation. Peru is a very poor country with much of the population living on a few dollars a week. They are poor and any job they get is like a westerner hitting the lottery.
I think it is safe to say that although I still wish I could have done the trail solo, I believe the supported trek with Alpaca was well worth the added expense. It not only supported the local economy, but also helped in a humanitarian and environmental mission dedicated to improving the future of the country as a whole.